Women’s Bespoke Suits

Good style and line are of paramount importance in the cutting and designing of women’s bespoke suits. There are no standardized rules of style and line to follow when drafting a pattern for women’s bespoke suits. Except the knowledge conveyed through one’s own eye and feeling for line.

Good bespoke tailoring is all about size and scale, and even more so when it comes to dressing the female figure. Too much attention cannot be given to ladies bespoke tailoring, especially the question of seam placement and seam run. The whole subject of good style and line is guided by the run of seams, to a greater extent than actual fit. A perfectly fitting and tailored garment is not necessarily one of good style. The seam placements must be in harmony with the figure and shape of the wearer.

If a woman is of larger proportions, the widths and dimensions of the design should not increase to the increase in the figure size. Otherwise we would only be making a copy of the wearers form, instead of endeavouring by the judicious placement of seams to convey an optical illusion of a slimmer build.

On the other hand, a slender figure with narrow shoulders may have the appearance of breadth conveyed by the wider spacing of seams at the shoulders. Tapering to a narrower width at the hip line. Definite rulings cannot be laid down. Only the guidance of good taste and artistic proportion can be relied upon to create truly stunning women’s bespoke suits.

Always when I endeavour to clothe the human figure, I try to improve on Nature’s little deformities if possible, by my cutting skill and artistic perception. It is to women’s bespoke suits cutting that the “art of cutting” is most applicable. A cutter may master a system, and calculate to the nearest fraction of an inch, and provide a perfectly fitting garment. Yet the finished article lacks a certain “something” that is line and style. And the garment on the wearer is “dead” and lifeless, instead of moulding to the form of the figure into harmonious lines. The fault is that the seam runs are probably at variance with the shape of the figure.

Line in women’s bespoke suits can only be achieved by a study of the shape and form of a woman’s figure. Then, by our perception, endeavour to transpose to the pattern this same shape, making the seam runs accentuate one part or minimise and disguise another. Courage and imagination are necessary to diverge from the lines laid down.

Bespoke morning coat

Our quintessential morning suit will ensure you look your best in morning dress. Tailored in black or grey and available with an extensive range of waistcoats and dress waistcoats.

Here at Merrion Bespoke, our bespoke suits are both stylish and timeless. Choose from our collection of bespoke suits to put your best foot forward and dress with intent. We provide numerous methods to capture your measurements in order to create your bespoke suits. Select the option that matches your level of convenience, and your garments will be ready in 6-8 weeks. You can find all my suit prices and make an appointment here 

Choose either my entry level Made To Measure. Mid range Semi Bespoke. Or my top end traditional Full Bespoke. Rest assured that all my suits are genuinely handmade to your individual measure. I do not outsource any part of your order to a third party.

Every item is hand- cut and hand-made by a master craftsman at our Castleford premises to the client’s individual pattern. All my bespoke suits are handmade to your precise requirements to create a garment that is uniquely tailored to you.

Bespoke Morning Coat

A black morning coat with matching black waistcoat is the most formal option. Considered slightly less formal, the bespoke morning coat can be worn in variant referred to as morning grey dress. Which has mid-grey matching morning coat, waistcoat, and trousers.

The name originated from the practice of gentlemen in the 19th century riding a horse in the morning. With a cutaway front, single breasted morning coat.

In the Edwardian era it took over in popularity from the frock coat as the standard daytime form of men’s full dress.

Manipulation

The traditional shaped English style of coat is still the most popular style and understandably so. To be honest, not much looks better than a well-cut suit with a clean chest. A  sharp defined shoulder line with a nicely shaped lapel leading down to the shaping into the waist. And a moderate flair given over the hips.

The loose material that shows itself at the waist needs shrinking away to ensure a good fit at the waist level. As already mentioned, manipulation plays a very important part in the production of a bespoke morning coat. The back has a brick tack. It forms a continuation of the the centre back seam.

Prices for a Desmond Merrion bespoke morning coat start at £3,600 ex VAT.

Handmade buttonholes are one of the most important hand stitches used by the tailor, and have a distinct bearing on the general appearance of a finished garment-more especially of a bespoke coat. For the proper understanding of this buttonhole it may be as well to describe the whole process of making handmade buttonholes. Wherever there are a number of handmade buttonholes, care must be taken to cut them all the same length, and never longer than required. A too long buttonhole appears sprawling and ungainly, and for strength and appearance a handmade buttonhole should never be worked shorter than it is cut.

The first thing is to mark the buttonholes straight, in their proper direction and at correct distances apart. After marking, they must be cut. If the buttonhole is to have an eye, the coat must be turned around  so that the edge is away from you, and the piece for the eye cut out; this, except in the case of heavy materials need not be large. The piece should be cut out clean, and be of a roundish oblong form.

The next step, and the first towards the actual working of the hole, is the barring; which consists of carrying the gimp round the hole at a distance from the edge, according to the width it is intended to make the buttonhole. This is a guide towards regulating the width of stitch all round.

To begin working or making the buttonhole, place the right-hand side (if left handed) of the hole between the right finger and thumb, with the side of the hole lying along the finger.

Now press the point of the needle through the hole to its under section, then upwards through the material so that it comes out on the upper side and just outside the gimp which has already been done. Before pulling out the needle, take the two threads hanging from the eye of the needle and pass it over the point and away from the body.

Next draw out the needle and with an upward and forward movement pull the thread home, when the first purl stitch will have been formed.

When making the stitches round the eye of the hole, they should be more thicklyor closely placed than along the edge.

On reaching the end of the finishing side of the hole the last stitches of the two sides should, with the needle, be brought close together, and then bound closely by a couple of stitches formed by padding the needle up and down alternate sides, finished off by two or three looped stitches formed over the cross ones.

Very much depends upon the appearance of handmade buttonholes, therefore make certain strain or tension on the thread is kept the same throughout the operation. Special care should be taken when making the turn at the eye of the buttonhole, particularly at the points where the sides converge into the rounded section, or eye. After the hole has been completed, the eye should be given its final shape by inserting a pencil tip, giving it a few twists or turns to even up the stitches which may not be correctly placed.