Made To Measure Trousers

Can be a sensible option if you don’t want to go to the expense of full bespoke. It’s an old expression that states, “If you want to do the business, you have to look the business”

A good quality well fitted pair of trousers could be the only difference between you and your competitors. Sounds nuts, but who knows !

Made to measure trousers provide an excellent fit. And I will still cut you your own trouser pattern.

Hand finishing

The picture below shows me hand finishing, hand sewing, the side adjusters to a pair of my clients trousers.

 

 

My made to measure trousers are a real quality garment. They are individually cut from your own pattern and expertly tailored to your figure.

the picture on the left shows another pair of made to measure trousers I am making, the side adjusters are basted in place waiting to be hand finished.

Both of these pairs show the adjusters actually on the waistband, sometimes they are placed lower down partly over the seam of the trouser top and the waistband seam.

Both my clients with these trousers when asked preferred their adjusters to be placed on the actual waistband. It’s all down to personal taste really. That’s one of the advantages of having your trousers made to measure, you get exactly what you want.

The two pictures below show a couple of other areas of my made to measure trousers, the back hip section and the front fly section. I use the best silesia pocketing and waist banding in all my trousers whether that be bespoke or made to measure. For more information drop me an email, des@dmerrion.com or give me a ring on 07871877061 to discuss your tailoring requirements. desmerrion.com

Bespoke Coat

If you are in the market for a top drawer bespoke coat, then feel free to drop me a message to discuss your tailoring requirements. desmerrion.com

This post will show one of the advantages of having a bespoke coat made versus buying an inferior, soulless, flat off the peg designer number which will probably cost double what I charge for a real craftsman made bespoke coat.

However, make sure you choose the right tailor for the job at hand, if your tailor does not make you feel like a sartorial god then you are dealing with the wrong tailor !

The main advantage of having a bespoke coat made is that firstly it will fit you perfectly, you will always look great when you wear it.

The other advantages are that you can completely imbue your own personal touches into your bespoke coat, I don’t just mean putting a flash lining into your bespoke coat, but having a real part in creating a true one-off piece that is absolutely unique to you.

You fancy a delta wing collar, no problem, you want a piece cutting away from your cuff to show some lining not a problem, you want a dip in the back of your collar, no problem……….you get the idea !

You can have a choice of the finest Yorkshire cloths known to man, in a vast array of colours and cloth compositions that perfectly compliment your skin tone and physique.

The other important thing that I think is overlooked quite a lot by clients is that if you invest in a quality tailored bespoke coat or suit, in fact any quality bespoke tailored item, then this garment can give you years and years of wear which really crushes the initial cost of purchase through the amount of times it is worn.

The picture above right shows a coat that I was getting to the forward fitting stage.

I have basted and hand sewn up the hem of the coat and if you look at the picture you can the hem has quite a considerable turn up, at least 3″.

On a factory made garment you would barely have 1 1/4″ turn up here which means the coat can’t ever be lengthened, but the bespoke coat can and more importantly this length can be used for if your figure ever changes.

I am not going into figurations here, but trust me it can be used to cater for your back balance, end of on that one !

The picture to the left shows the same coat with the lining hem now also hand basted, ( tacked ) into place ready for the hand finishing to be done.

So the next time you have a few quid to throw at a bespoke coat look me up and let’s get you something fantastic created for you. Any questions ? I would be happy to have an informal chat. Drop me an email des@dmerrion.com or give me a ring on 07871877061. For more information browse my website desmerrion.com

 

Made To Measure Suits

I make the finest made to measure suits and bespoke suits personally in my own workroom.

What is unique about the way I operate ? I haven’t just drifted or migrated into this trade to try to make a few quid off of you. I have come the hard way from the shop floor.

What I am going to briefly explain here is the process of my made to measure suits. And  how similar the bespoke and made to measure service really are.

It’s a lot of bang for your buck as they say.

My made to measure suits are cut AND fully made in-house. I don’t outsource to a third party. I actually make suits for Savile Row tailors…

Pleased to meet you

The options are as flexible with my made to measure suits, as with my full bespoke. I will cut you your own individual pattern ……yes that’s right folks I cut you your own pattern. No pre-made patterns here darling.

Please remember that you are not dealing with someone who is going to send your suit order to some low income country sweat shop or factory, or up the road to Carl Stuart, the tailors trade factory at Ossett near Wakefield.

No outsourcing

After your pattern is cut I will carefully hand cut out your suit and then prepare your suit for your first fitting, it’s not quite as bare as a skeleton baste, but not too far off.

Time for your fitting

I will conduct the first fitting at a time that suits you.

After this fitting I will strip your suit down and re-cut and shape any parts of your suit to ensure we achieve a precise and very clean fit. I will carefully check all the lengths of everything and start to imbue your own personal style requirements into your suit. I will then prepare your suit for a forward fitting.

So you can see you will get a minimum of two fittings, your own pattern made, your suit cut out by hand and not by a machine, endless style and detail options, hand fitted together and hand sculpted to your figures requirements and the choice of any cloth from any of the cloth bunches that I carry.

Granted, all the bunches are not at the same price point, if you pick a more expensive cloth we adjust the price accordingly.

After the first fitting

This is why I keep harping on about coming to me for your tailoring requirements. I will GENUINELY tailor you a suit.

Made to measure suits Leeds.

Here at Merrion Bespoke, our bespoke suits are both stylish and timeless. Choose from our collection of bespoke suits to put your best foot forward and dress with intent. We provide numerous methods to capture your measurements in order to create your bespoke suits. Select the option that matches your level of convenience, and your garments will be ready in 6-8 weeks. You can find all my suit prices here.

Made to measure suits Leeds, so what are the best colours for your tailored suits?

Our expert advice leans towards investing in three fundamental shades: navy, charcoal, and a softer shade such as petrol blue. The world of business style has bid adieu to the days of pin stripes and checks, embracing the subtle elegance of herringbone patterns and interesting textures.

When curating your tailored wardrobe, synchronise your suit selection with your existing ensemble of shirts and ties, creating a harmonious blend that echoes your personal style. White and blue shirts tend to keep the complexities of business attire nice and simple, then simply add subtly textured, spot and stripe ties if you are still rocking them.

For the ardent suit enthusiasts who grace their workplace attired in a suit daily, a selection of at least three impeccable bespoke or made to measure suits Leeds is essential. Adhering to a rotational regime not only prolongs the lifespan of your suits but also retains their intrinsic charm. We suggest wearing a suit for one day and resting for two and rotating accordingly. Also avoid frequent dry cleaning to maintain the fabric’s pristine condition and lustre. You can think of your suit as you would your overcoat and dry clean as infrequently. If it needs a freshen up you can request your dry cleaner do that rather than a full clean. This prevents over treating your suit and will ward off any hints of a shine which can age your suit/s prematurely.

Book your appointment to visit Desmond Merrion Bespoke, and find the perfect bespoke or made to measure suits Leeds with our consultation throughout. For all inquiries, please contact us, and we will look forward to serving you.

A man’s suit of clothes, in the sense of a lounge suit, or bespoke business suits, is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth. Often called a business suit when featuring dark colours and a conservative cut.

Sophisticated two, and three-piece suits to wear in the office or about town are the backbone of the modern business persons wardrobe. The single breasted two button jacket is run to a close second by the double breasted two show six ensemble.

We’re highly competent at dressing very successful, high-profile businessmen and women. Order your next bespoke business suit from Desmond Merrion.

Don’t cut corners. A bespoke suit or made to measure suits Leeds is something you’ll need to revisit time and time again. Invest the first time.

You might find a ready-to-wear suit that fits perfectly, but bespoke is usually the best option, especially for those who have a little more trouble finding the perfect fit. 

If you choose wisely, your bespoke business suits will look crisp for years to come.

Desmond Merrion has been the personal tailor of choice for the CEO of M&G Investments. And, practically all the board of directors at M&G Investments since 2007. We’re also proud to dress The Chairman, and CEO of Grosvenor Estate. And many other important figures within other world-renowned companies.

Bespoke Trousers

This post is about bespoke trousers. Let me tell you, making good quality and well fitted bespoke trousers is not as easy as you think. How many times have you seen men that have a fairly decently fitted coat ? But lousy fitting trousers with a mega baggy bottom ? The big garment manufacturers struggle to make a half decent pair of well fitted trousers. So how can ‘Bill’ the local cheap tailor down the road come anywhere near making you a half decent pair of trousers ?

I believe men are now at the stage where they care what their suit looks like. They are actually looking at the seat of their trousers. There was a time when men never looked at the rear of their trousers. And to be honest it was a good job they didn’t. If they had, they may well have had a heart attack with the state of the trousers at the back !

Obviously, trousers need to be cut right. But more importantly they need a liberal use of the tailors iron, and I mean liberal. Not the type of liberal that knocks on your door asking you to vote for them. The heavy tailors iron plays the deciding role in the outcome of the fit and hang.

The picture to the right shows a bespoke trouser leg laid on my vac table before setting. You can see my two irons, a normal steam iron, and my 16lb heavy tailors pressing iron. If you look at the trouser at this stage you can see the leg is actually quite shapeless and rather parallel.

The picture to the left shows the same trouser leg. But this time the picture shows the leg partially shaped with the heavy iron that you can also see in the picture. I have stretched and shrunk the cloth at the crucial places on the trouser and set the trouser creases front and rear.

Trousers when worn, should hang straight down at the back of your legs and fit nicely around the seat of your ……. err ……. arse !

There should be no creases, folds, pulls, drags or whatever more terminology I can use to describe an abomination of badly fitting trousers.

If you paid good hard cash for someone to make you so-called bespoke, or made to measure trousers and your trousers posses any of the above symptoms, then in a heart beat high tale it back to said twit from whence they came and demand they sort them out for you because they are not right. Don’t be shy in asking, nay, downright demand they rectify the problem, then maybe the outcome is that you will have them rumbled as a non tailor. ” Luke, I feel many refunds coming on within the Empire”

Bespoke Trousers

The picture to the right shows clearly now the effect the iron has had on these trousers. Don’t even dream of asking me to explain pressing to you sunshine ! I can’t, it’s a feel a touch a clear understanding of the medium you are working with. It’s like a Samurai in a state of Zen before he goes into battle. It’s like me before I take the head off a pint of John Smiths cask bitter from my local …….. Where are we at ?

Ah yes, pressing, in a nutshell it’s down to EXPERIENCE and lots of it, simple.

The picture on the right shows the left trouser leg looking down it. The front of the trousers is to the bottom of the picture, ( no zip added yet ) and the seat of the trouser is to the top of the picture.

The picture on the left now shows you the leg fully shaped out. You can see the impression of the full leg inlay showing on the seam in the middle of the trouser leg, I ‘blow’ this impression out later when the trousers are finished when I will then fully press them off.

The fold or bump you can see is the leg lining and the pocket bag sitting inside the trouser leg.

If you compare this picture to the first picture in the article, then I hope you can see the difference through the sequence of pictures.To get the bespoke trousers to this stage. The trousers have gone from being fairly flat to something that actually resembles a leg and the backside of a man.

Incidentally, these trousers are now finished and are for a client of mine in London. He is tall and very lean. Tall men are obsessed with trousers being too short and too narrow.

LOOK at your trouser hems ! The hem shouldn’t have any stitches showing through when it is finished. If you can see the stitches then its been finished by machine, and badly done.

The picture to the left shows a portion of the top section of the bespoke trousers.

You can see in this picture the ‘extension’ portion of the left front waistband laid on my bunch of Fyffes bananas. The extension is as clean as you like, its square and straight. The run into the top of the waistband is also straight, as is the seam portion onto the actual trouser.

You can also see the zip, bespoke tailors use metal zips not PLASTIC !! Unless the cloth is a very lightweight cloth we may use a plastic zip. If you look closely you can also see the hand stitching down the front portion of the trouser.

If you have, then get your hat and coat on and beat a path back to the ‘tailor’ ! For more information look on my website desmerrion.com

Bespoke Tailors

Well lets not beat around the bush, REAL bespoke tailors are about as rare as the old proverbial hens teeth these days.

So with that said, I hope that this blog documenting my daily goings on will hopefully help you to distinguish between the real tailors and the salesmen that just talk bollocks, pretend to be a tailor and sell you some crappy suit.

The picture to the left shows the right front section of a bespoke coat that I am working on right now. You can clearly see the canvas running all the way through the shoulder and the front. The hand pad stitching I have done to make this canvas is clearly seen on the chest area on the white dommette.

The canvas has been cut and the pocket has been placed over the canvas. I have then again hand stitched the pocket bag to the canvas to secure it in place. The front needs re-cutting and then I will be hand padding ( stitching ) the lapels. Bespoke tailoring is about time, and lots of it, that is one of the major costs of what you are paying for.

The picture to the right shows me hand basting one of the sleeves into a clients coat. Putting sleeves into a coat is one of the most difficult operations, getting the hang right AND making sure the sleeve looks and drapes beautifully is an art. It took me many, many years to truly insert sleeves that I really felt happy with. Many tailors struggle with inserting sleeves, and the ready to wear manufacturers turn out sleeves most of which are an absolute abortion, my father would turn in his bleeding’ grave if I turned out bad sleeves.

 

The picture to the left shows the same coat I am working on to the right, a lightweight fresco cloth, navy blue from J+J Minnis in Huddersfield. You can see the sleeve head has got a rope, or pronounced round to the top portion of the sleeve, I ALWAYS make my sleeves with a fairly strong rope to the sleeve head. In my eyes it is one of the signs of a true craftsman made piece because to execute a clean, defined rope sleeve head is not easy. Off the peg suits rarely have this type of sleeve head finish because it’s too difficult for factories to produce and press when the coat is finished, and if it does have a rope it’s usually a poor relative of the real McCoy.

 

The picture to the right shows me hand basting the lining, a fuscia satin colour, around the armhole of the coat. When I have basted the lining I will then pare off the excess lining around the armhole. Then this coat will be ready for the sleeve lining to be brought up over the white baste cotton and delicately and precisely hand stitched in place finishing the sleeves. So if I can assist you with any tailoring requirements, then please drop me a line I would be delighted to hear from you. desmerrion.com