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I consult with each client on their suit requirements: is it for business, how often will it be worn, what kind of look do you want to achieve?
Once your requirements have been established I will then measure you, taking into account any style or fit requirements we have discussed.
I then use these measures to draft a pattern from a blank sheet of paper – in full bespoke and of course the supreme bespoke, this pattern is unique to you and you only. I then mark in around your pattern on to your chosen fabric and will cut out your suit. I will also cut all the other items required to make a try on.
First try on, and further try-ons if required
At the first fitting your jacket is normally at the pocket fitting or forward stage. This still gives us the option and possibility to make any alterations ( let out, take in, lengthen, shorten, etc ) After this try on I completely strip your suit down to its component parts, apply any alterations noted at your try on and re cut your garment with these alterations, I will also transfer the alterations to the pattern I personally cut for you. Your suit will normally be finished after this fitting.
 I try to do all my alterations on your jacket while you are in front of me wearing it eg, if the shoulders are wrong I will correct them, same for the collar or the sleeves etc. However, if there is something we are not happy with we can schedule an additional try on. At this stage your jacket will have the outside pockets fully made and inserted, the canvas will be inserted through the jackets fronts, the lapels will be hand padded ( hand sewn ) the jacket facings, which are the cloth lapels, will have been made.The jacket lining you chose and any inner pockets you specified will be complete along with some other minor detailing.
The shoulders of the jacket will only be basted, ( hand tacked together ) the under-collar will also be basted into the neck of the jacket and both sleeves will be basted in. I can still correct pretty much anything that might be wrong at this point. If there are any alterations to be done these are again applied to your suit and also transferred to your personal pattern which by now should be perfect... a true one off. Your trousers will normally be almost complete at this fitting point except for the seat seam, leg length and the hand finishing.
I should be able to finish your suit from this, the forward fitting stage. It would indeed be very unusual if I could not. I am of the opinion that you have as many fittings as necessary until we are both happy, it is much easier to make alterations as we go along. Yes, we all get alterations on finished jobs, but they should be the exception rather than the rule. To take in or let out a little is no big drama, but to get big alterations is a catastrophe - a few of them can easily ruin a reputation. No tailor worth his salt wants to unpick loads of handwork when the garment is finished - it never goes back the same, it is unsettling for the client and usually leaves them disappointed.
When your suit is finished it is then personally pressed by my hands and delivered to you - of course you are delighted and tell all your friends!
I always try to see the finished suit on the customer to ensure that all is well although sometimes this is not possible, but either way I will follow up 4-6 weeks after delivery to see if everything is alright and to confirm that you are happy with your suit bespoke suits do need a little time to settle and the best way for them to settle, is for it to have been worn a few times to give any faults the chance to show themselves. All I do ask is that if there is a problem you give me every opportunity to correct it - what seems like a crisis to a client is usually easily rectified, I know it may seem it at the time, but it's not the end of the world if a button falls off! |
Consultancy & measurement
Pressing and delivery!